Woodworking Articles

I have been doing stair building and hand railings for over 30 years. It is fun to look back on past jobs and think of where we have been and the woodwork that we have done. We have stairs built in just about every town in the North Bay Area (Bay being San Francisco Bay), from Gualalla to the South of San Francisco, from Bodega Bay to Sacramento and the Sierra Foothills on up to Lake Tahoe.On the coastal plane north of Bodega Bay in the salty grotto of Soreno Del Mar there are a few modern stairs that we have fabricated and installed, in Sebastopol we have put in several craftsman stairs into older bungalows. In Santa Rosa we have done custom foothill homes, upper end subdivision staircases, commercial work, as well as condominiums. In Healdsburg we have worked on many Wineries and Wine Country homes.

Staircase design really has no limit and we haven’t found much correlation between geographic and design similarities with the exception of Sea Ranch and Bodega Harbor. These coastal communities, because they have design boards and I’m sure because the folks that settle there favor the indigenous, have leaned more towards the Modern Style or the simplicity of the Craftsman Style.

Repairing a loose baluster: Over time some components of a wooden staircase are going to loosen up and rattle. In that wood is an organic material that can absorb moisture and then dry out again with the seasons thus expanding and contracting, there is bound to be some give eventually. Wood balusters are of two types when it comes to fastening; either square topped or round (turned) topped. Both types are usually secured at the bottom by a turned dowel that is fit with glue into a drilled hole in the tread. Older homes who’s stairs were built with the housed and wedged method had the balusters set with dovetails morticed into the tread. If a baluster is loose at the bottom either remove it and clean off the old glue and reapply using a modern mastic to compensate for loose fit or if it can’t be removed, pre-drill and drive a toenail through it into the step. For dovetailed balusters a couple of well placed pre-drilled nails or screws should arrest any movement. The tops of the balusters can be fixed with the same techniques. Re-glued when the baluster can be removed and nailed when the baluster won’t budge. Square top balusters probably are set into a plow or trough in the rail with a piece of wood (fillet) cut in between each baluster. If the fillet above the baluster can be removed, it along with the baluster can be re-glued and secured. A trim head screw can also be used, the head hidden by the fillet. Remember to pre-drill for all screws and nails so the wood won’t be split. A nail gun is great for these repairs. A repair on a round top baluster can be treated with a small shim with a bit of glue on it and driven into the hole along side the baluster. That’s an easy and quick repair.

Squeaky stairs can have a certain charisma. They can alert one to an unwanted intruder or a late night teenage adventure. Often times they are simply a source of irritation or more importantly squeaks and creaks are an indicator that the stair needs repair. A staircase that needs repair is an unsafe stair. The squeaks are caused by the movement of wood rubbing against wood. Maybe the glue has aged and lost it’s adhesion. Older stairs were commonly just fastened with nails and with the expansion and contraction that happens with wood, over time the nails loose their grip and start to slip as stepping pressure is applied.. Squeaks are usually easy to repair especially if one has access to the undercarrage.
The first step is to locate where the squeak is coming from. Is it the front of a step or the back? Is it where the tread/step hits the stringer or wall?

Squeaks from the front of the step: If the squeak is in the front of the step, is there cove mold between the tread and riser under the nose? If so the cove might be able to be pulled off and some glue added and pin nails refixed. If a crack is visible under the tread at the riser one could glue and insert a wood shim or two for a bond (make sure to only snug the wedge in, not to force it and tweek the step). The shim can be trimmed flush with a utility knife. If one is real handy or a carpenter is involved one can drive a few trim head screws (very small heads that will sink into the wood and accept putty) from the step into the riser but the stair finish will be comprimised a bit. If the undercarrage of the stair is accessable then little blocks of wood (glue blocks) can be used where glue would be applied onto two adjacent sides and pushed up into the step/riser joint. This is the proper way to secure a step to a riser when the stair is first fabricated. If the blocks are there and the glue has worn maybe a few well placed short screws or nails can be applied to resecure. Make sure to check the size of the nail/screw so it doesn’t break out the riser or step face.

Squeaks from the back of the step: If the squeak is coming from the back of the step it should be repaired from the undercarrage. On older stairs the risers were simply nailed to the back of the treads. These nails need to be helped by a few well placed screws and the problem will be solved. If there is enough separation between the riser and tread I’d squeeze some glue into the joint before fasteners are used.

Squeaks from the step to stringer/wall. These squeeks can be arrested from on top of the stair but a repair from the undercarrage will leave the finished look of the stairs unscarred. From the top of the tread/step a well placed screw or two toescrewed (angled) from the step into the skirt board or wall should stop a squeek (if the repair screw is going directly into sheetrock or plaster an internal stud should be located first). From the undercarrage one can see if the stair has been fabricated with the ‘housed and wedged’ method of stairbuilding. If so, and a wedge is visable the original glue has apparently worn out. Try and take the wedge out and reglue and drive it home with a hammer. If there is simply glue or nailing blocks there, they need to be rescrewed, again being careful not to run a screw up through the face of the tread.

Remodeling your Staircase- More often than not a staircase of a two story home is the first thing that one sees when the front door is opened. It is the beacon that alerts all guests as to the flavor of ones home. Is is a rustic stair, craftsman, traditional, a contemporary, old and out dated, well worn by the lives of it’s owners, is it inviting, or maybe mysterious. Get the picture!

Most often a client is coming to us to remodel their staircase with a very architectually out dated staircase. Maybe it has green or rust orange shag rugs (yes there are still remnents in existence) or a wrought iron balustrade attached with flimsy metal posts or traditionally turned posts where the feel of the home is more contemporary. Simply put they all are either just worn out or they have a style that has really seen it’s day.

These clients are looking for transformation and that is what they get. Overhauling a staircase can really upgrade and reorder a homes complexion.

The Building Codes (codes) have been created to be safety construction guidelines. The codes regulate the structure of buildings and their component parts and make dwellings conform to standards that are continually updated and revised. The latest (2010) stair codes are the most specific yet. This article represents Stair Building and Handrailing in Sonoma County, Marin County, and Napa County in Northern California (North San Francisco bay area) but is pertinent to all of California and reflects stair building and handrailing safety in general.

Stairs are the most dangerous part of a home. In my 25+ years of stair building I have walked up and down countless staircases. I can usually tell if a stair builder has errored in his layout by varying the rise or run, an inconsistency that creates hazard. Stairway accidents are not only caused by carelessness, but by these layout irregularities.

The codes standardize the rise and run of a stair by giving minimum and maximum dimensions as well as allowing for a very small permissible variance. The codes address a stairs handrail height (34″ to 38″ vertical from an imaginary line from tread nose to nose). They address the handrail dimensions and shape to make sure that it is graspable while one is on the stair (a balcony level railing is considered only as a guard rail and need not be graspable). The codes address the balcony guard railing height (formerly at 36″ off of the finish floor and now at 42″). The codes specify a maximum baluster spacing (4 3/8″ on a staircase and 4″ on a balcony) making sure no child can fall through, as well as the minimum stair width, headroom and landing placement and size requirements. Spiral stairs (circular with a center pole) have specific code variables that allow for them to be a bit steeper than a normal set of stairs.

Here are the 2010 California Residential Codes that apply to interior staircases. This is the newest version to date. It is fairly easy to understand except for Section R311.7.7.3 Grip-size. Honestly, I don’t know what they were thinking when they put that section together. How does one measure the ‘perimeter dimension of at least 4 inches and not greater than 6 1/4 inches’ and ‘edges shall have a minimum radius of 0.01 inch’. I’m sure most building inspectors couldn’t figure this out and if there is ever a question, it might require a mathmatician (geometry) to settle it.

Sections from 2010 California Residential Code Section R311 Means of Egress & Section R112 Guards

Section R311 Means of Egress

R311.1 Means of Egress. All dwellings shall be provided with a means of egress as provided in this section. The means of egress shall provide a continuous and unobstructed path of vertical and horizontal egress travel from all portions of the dwelling to the exterior of the dwelling at the required egress door without requiring travel through a garage.

***Sections 311.2 through 311.6 pertain to egress doors, deck attachment and hallway width which do not pertain to stairs and aren’t cited here.

R311.7 Stairways.
R311.7.1 Width. Stairways shall not be less than 36 inches in clear width at all points above the permitted handrail height and below the required headroom height. Handrails shall not project more than 4.5 inches on either side of the stairway and the minimum clear width of the stairway at and below the handrail height, including treads and landings, shall not be less than 31 1/2 inches where a handrail is installed on one side and 27 inches where handrails are provided on bothe sides. Exception: The width of spiral stairways shall be in accordance with Section R311.7.9.1

R311.7.2 Headroom. The minimum headroom in all parts of the stairway shall not be less than 6 feet 8 inches measured veritcally from the sloped line adjoingng the tread nosing or from the floor surface of the landing or platform on that portion of the stairway.
Exception: Where the nosings of treads at the side of a flight extend under the edge of a floor opening through which the stair passes, the floor opening shall be allowed to project horizontally into the required headroom a maximum of 4 3/4 inches.

R311.7.3 Walkline. The walkline across winder treads shall be concentric to the curved direction of travel through the turn and located 12 inches from the side where the winders are narrower. The 12-inch dimension shall be measured from the widest point of the clear stair width at the walking surface of the winder. If winders are adjacent within the flight, the point of the widest clear stair width of the adjacent winders shall be used.

R311.7.4 Stair treads and risers. Stair treads and risers shall meet the requirements of this section.
For the puroses of this section all dimensions and dimensioned surfaces shall be exclusive of carpets, rugs or runners.

R311.7.4.1 Riser Height. The maximum riser height shall be 7 3/4 inches. The riser shall be measured vertically between leading edges of the adjacent treads. The greatest riser height within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch.
R311.7.4.2 Tread Depth. The minimum tread depth shall be 10 inches. The tread depth shall be measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the tread’s leading edge. The greatest tread depth within anyh flight of stairs sall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch. Consistently shaped winders at the walkline shall be allowed within the same flight of stairs as rectangular treads and do not have to be within 3/8 inch of the rectangular tread depth.
Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 10 inches measured between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads at the intersections with the walkline. Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 6 inches at any point within the clear width of the stair. Within any flight of stairs, the largest winder tread depth at the walkline shall not exceed the smallest winder tread by more than 3/8 inch.
R311.7.4.3 Profile. The radius of curvature at the nosing shall be no greater than 9/16 inch. A nosing not less than 3/4 inch but not more than 1 1/4 inches shall be provided on stairways with solid risers. The greatest nosing projection shall not exdceed the smallest nosing projection by more than 3/8 inch between two stories, including the nosing at the level of floors and landings. Beveling of nosings shall not exceed 1/2 inch. Risers shall be vertical or sloped under the tread above from the underside of the nosing above at an angle not mroe than 30 degrees from the vertical Open risers are permitted, provided that the opening between treads does not permit the passage of a 4- inch diameter sphere.
Exceptions:
1) A nosing is not required where the tread depth is a minimum of 11 inches.
2) The opening between adjacent treads is not limited on stairs with a total rise of 30 inches or less.
R311.7.4.4 Exterior wood/plastic composite stair treads. Wood/plansic composite stair treads shall com;ly with the provisions of Section R317.4

R311.7.5 Landings for Stairways. There shall be a floor or landing at the top and bottom of each stairway.
Exception: A floor or landing is not required at the top of an interior flight of stairs, including stairs in an enclosed garage, provided a door does not swing over the stairs. A flight of stairs shall not have a vertical rise larger than 12 feet between floor levels or landings. The width of each landing shall not be less than the width of the stairway served. Every landing shall have a minimum dimension of 36 inches measured in the direction of travel.

R311.7.6 Stairway walking surface. The walking surface of treads and landings of stairways shall be sloped no steeper than one unit vertical in 48 inches horizontal (2-percent slope).

R311.7.7 Handrails. Handrails shall be provided on at least on side of each continuous run of treads or flight with four or more risers.
R311.7.7.1 Height. Handrail height, measured vertically fom the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall be not less than 34 inches and not mroe than 38 inches.
Exceptions:
1) The use of a volute, turnout or starting easing shall be allowed over the lowest tread.
2) When handrail fittings or bendings are used to provide continuous transition between flights, the transition from hnadrail to guradrail, or used at the start of a flight, the handrail height at the fittings or bendings shall be permitted to execeed the maximum height.

R311.7.7.2 Continuity. Handrails for stairways shall be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above the lowest riser of the flight. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals. Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 1 1/2 inch between the wall and the handrails.
Exceptions:
1) Handrails shall be permitted to be interrupted by a newel post at the turn.
2) The use of a volute, turnout, starting easing or starting newel shall be allowed over the lowest tread.
R311.7.7.3 Grip-size. All required handrails shall be of one of the following types or provide equivalent graspability.
1)Type I. Handrails with a circular cross section shall have and outside diameter of a least 1 1/4 inches and not greater than 2 inches. If the handrail is not circular, it shall have a perimeter dimension of at least 4 inches and not greater than 6 1/4 inches with a maximum cross section of dimension of 2 1/4 inches. Edges shall have a minimum radius of 0.01 inch.
2) Type II. Handrails with a perimeter greater than 6 1/4 inches shall have a graspable finger recess area on both sides of the profile. The finger recess shall begin within a distance of 3/4 inch measured vertically from the tallest portion of the profile and achieve a depth of at least 5/16 inch within 7/8 inch below the widest portion of the profile. This required depth shall continue for at least 3/8 inch to a level that is not less than 1 3/4 inches below the tallest protion of the profile. The minimum width of the handrail above the recess shall be 1 1/4 inches to a maimum of 2 3/4 inches. Edges shall have a minimum radius of 0.01 inch.
R311.7.7.4 Exterior wood/plastic composite hadrails. Wood/;pastic somposite handrails shall comply with the provisions of Section R317.4.

R311.7.8 Illumination. All stairs shall be provided with illumination in accordance with Section R303.6

R311.7.9 Special stairways. Spiral stairways and bulkbead enclosure stairways shall comply with all requirements of Section R311.7 except as specified below.
R311.7.9.1 Spiral stairways. Spiral stairways are permitted, provided the minimum clear width at and below the handrail shall be 26 inches with each tread having a 7 1/2″ minimum tread depth at 12 inches from the narrower edge. All treads shall be identical, and the rise shall be no more than 9 1/2 inches. A minimum headroom of 6 feet 6 inches shal be provided.
R311.7.9.2 Bulkhead enclosure stairways. Stairways serving bulkhead enclosures, not part of the required building egress, providing access from the outside grade level to the basement shall be exempt from the requirements of Sections R311.3 and R311.7 where the maximum height from the basement finished floor level to grade adjacent to the stairway does not exceed 8 feet and the grade level opening to the stairway is covered by a bulkhead enclosure with hinged doors or other approved means.

R311.8 Ramps.
R311.8.1 Maximum slope. Ramps shall have a maximum slope of 1 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (8.3 percent slope).
Exception: Where it is technically infeasible to comply because of site constraints, ramps may have a maximum slope of one unit vertical in eight horizontal (12.5 percent slope).
R311.8.2 Landings required. A minimum 3-foot-by-3-foot landing shall be provided:
1) At the top and bottom of ramps.
2) Where doors open onto ramps.
3) Where ramps change direction.
R311.8.3 Handrails required. Handrails shall be provided on at least one side of all ramps exceeding a slope of one unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (8.33 percent slope).
R311.8.3.1 Height. Handrail height, measured above the finsihed surface of the ramp slope, shall be not less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches.
R311.8.3.2 Grip size. Handrails on ramps shall comply with Section R311.7.7.3
R311.8.3.3 Continuity. Handrails where required on ramps shall be continuous for the full lenght of the ramp. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals. Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 1 1/2 inches between the wall and the handrails.

Section R312 Guards

R312.1 Where required. Guards shall be located along open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, ramps and landings, that are located more than 30 inches measured vertically to the floor or grade below at any point within 36 inches horizontally to the edge of the open side. Insect screening shall not be considered as a guard.
R312.2 Height. Required guards at open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, proches, balconies or landings, shall be not less than 42 inches high measured vertically above the adjacent walking surface, adjacent fixed seating or the line connecting the leading edges of the treads.
Exceptions:
1) The triangular openings at the open side of a stair, formed by ther riser, tread and bottom rail of a guard, shall not allow passage of a sphere 6 inches in diameter.
2) Where the top of the guard also serves as a handrail on the open sides of stairs, the top of the guard shall not be less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches measured vertically from a line connection the leading edges of the treads.
R312.3 Opening limitations. Required guards shall not have openings from the walking surface to the required guard height which allow passage of a sphere 4 inches in diameter.
Exceptions:
1) The triangular openings at the open side of a stair, formed by the riser, tread and bottom rail of a guard, shall not allow passage of a sphere 6 inches in diameter.
2) Guards on the open sides of stairs shall not have openings which allow passage of a sphere 4 3/8 inches in diameter.
R312.4 Exterior woodplastic composite guards. Wood plastic composit guards shall comply with the provisions of Section R317.4

Bending wood by the process of lamination is not an exact science and takes practice. How wood bends is dependent on many variables, such as what species of wood is involved, the moisture content of the wood, the thickness, width and quantity of your laminants, what kind of glue is to be used, and how acute of a radius is to be bent. Unfortunately, these variables do not lend themselves to proven charts or tables that would make the process a bit more predictable. We have found that the bending of wood by laminating is an art that is picked up by experience and usually even when all the factors are taken into consideration, unless the finish product is to be mechanically held in place, the resulting product will more than likely have some spring back (change of radius). We always take some springback into our calculations and make adjustments for it.

Once a radius is determined (and in our case usually we need to layout for a stair pitch or angle as well) we draw the arc on a plywood laminating deck (see our pictures ‘Stair and Handrail Fabrication’). We use metal stantions or wooden 2×6’s as a laminating frame. If we are bending for a staircase we will build what we call a drum that is basically a curved wall. Once the wood to be used is resawn and sanded to its final dimention, glue is applied, the bundle is wrapped in several places with plastic wrap to keep the laminants in place for easy handling and with clamps spread out ready to work with (make sure to double the amount of clamps that you think that you need), we set the laminants in place, force the wood into position with muscle power (helps to have several extra hands) and start clamping either from one end or from the middle out both directions towards the ends. We will leave our laminant dry for as long as we can afford. The final radius is very dependant on how long the glue has to set up and again, what kind of glue has been used (most glue that we employ will have a extended cure rate where flexibility decreases with time). When the clamps are released and the laminant is taken off of the drum, the top and bottom edges are scraped of excess glue and the are trued and sanded. Simple as that!

*WORK IN PROGRESS

Stairs and balustrades have been made with just about every hardwood (and softwood) available. The most common hardwoods for stair building are Poplar, Alder, Red Oak, Hard Maple, Beech, and American Cherry. We have made staircases and balustrades out of Walnut, White Oak, various species of Mahogany, Rosewood, Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba), Caribbean Heart Pine, Santos Mahogany, Padauk, Hickory, Beech, Ash, Ironwood (Ipe) and many other species. The hardwood flooring business is now importing an incredible variety of South American hardwoods and many of our clients have wanted to match their staircase and handrails with their flooring choice. Some woods are not very practical since some hardwoods are imported for flooring only and aren’t available in long lengths (These woods can be spliced and laminated if necessary). Because Poplar, Alder, Red Oak, Hard Maple and American Cherry are the most popular hardwoods for staircases, they are usually the most economical because the balustrade parts are manufactured in quantities that yield more reasonable prices.

A specific wood will have different grain patterns depending on how its log is cut. Plain sawn, which gives the most lumber yield per log, is basically just cutting a log into planks as it lays. Quarter sawn cut is just as it is labeled. The log is first halved and then 1/4ed like a pie cut and then sliced from outer layer towards the core. Because of the increase in labor and the reduction of lumber yield it is a more expensive cut. It has straight grain and ray flecks (One sees this cut frequently in antiques made of Oak). Rift is a quarter sawn cut that has the straightest grain and no ray flecks. A rotary cut is produced by putting a log on a giant lathe and cutting a thin slice lengthwise as the log turns. This cut is used as veneer for plywood. When you see a production type oak door, the wild grain patterns are veneers that are produced as a rotary cut.

The following hardwood descriptions have been derived from 35 years of my woodworking experience.

Poplar: We use poplar for any part of a staircase that is to be painted. It is relatively hard, machines and sands with ease and because it doesn’t have an open grain and is relatively inexpensive, is a great wood for painting.A few of our cost conscious clients have ordered poplar stairs to be stained. They are usually going dark in color and if the hue is dark enough to discount the greens and purples, the results are very nice.

Alder: Alder is a beautiful evenly colored brownish hardwood that is one of the softest hardwoods that we use for stairway and handrail fabrication (apparently Alder is white when first cut but oxygination browns it quickly). Because it costs less and because it stains easily and evenly, it’s a relatively good substitute for Cherry. It is browner in color than Cherry but the grain and porosity are similar. Alders most limiting factor is that it only yields short (mostly 8′-10′ with occational 12′) lengths where a lot of stairs call for 12+’ to 16′ lengths.

Red Oak: Red Oak is a very hard open grained wood and has very distinctive grain patterns. It is tough enough to withstand the punishment that comes to stair treads (steps). It machines and sands well and takes a stain evenly and easily. It is prone to have internal checking which has to be culled out during the milling process. We have had clients put a Cherry stain on Red Oak which has taken on a definite Cherry patina but it won’t fool anyone who knows a bit about woods. Some woods like Poplar, Alder and Maple can be disguised with stain but because of it’s tale tell grain, Red Oak will always look like Red Oak.

Maple: Maple is a denser hardwood than Oak and is an excellent choice for stairbuilding. It has a soft grain pattern and although hard, machines and sands well. It has a light patina and when finished correctly can resemble other more expensive woods. It’s downfall is in using stain to darken it. Maple will have a very blotchy appearance unless care is taken in the finishing process. A lot of finishers will apply a ‘stain controller’ before the stain goes on to assure that the finish will go on evenly.

Beech: (American and European) Beech is a very hard and strong close grained hardwood, light brown in color with darker specks (dashes) throughout. It is available in turned stair spindles, posts and handrails but as with Alder long pieces for railing will have to be spliced. I used European Beech on my home staircase. It machines and takes a finish nicely.

American Cherry: Cherry seems just as strong as maple but isn’t as hard. It is a beautiful wood and has been one of the top choices of cabinet makers since colonial times. Cherry has a redish brown patina that gets richer and darker with age. Cherry is the most expensive hardwood that is produced on a production scale for balustrade parts and is made even more costly because it’s sapwood is very light (white) and if a client wants their cherry to be homogenous without sap, the culling process can easily produce more than a 1/3 waste. Cherry is great to work with. After its initial drying process it is very stable. It planes and sands well and and takes a finish easily and evenly. I’ve found cherry to be best with a simple clear finish because it darkens gradually and naturally when exposed to sunlight to a wonderful dark cherry patina.

Some of the other most common hardwoods that we use for stairs are White Oak, Mahogany, and some of the nutwoods like Hickory.

White Oak: It is easy to describe White Oak as it contrasts to Red Oak. White Oak is denser than Red Oak and has a much lighter patina. Red and White Oaks grain patterns are similar but because of White Oaks higher density, it looks smoother (less porous) than Red Oak. It is stronger than and is more durable for treads. From a woodworkers standpoint it machines and sands well and it is incredably aromatic when it is machined. I love the smell of our shop when we run a White Oak stair job through. Because of it’s water-tightness, it has been used through the ages for boats as well as wine and water barrels (the aromatic properties are given to the wine when stored in White Oak barrels thus those wine tasters get ‘oakey’ overtones. White Oaks water resistent qualities should never be tested on an interior staircase.

Mahogany: There are 3 authentic commercial species of Mahogany. The most common is African Mahogany and Tropical American Mahogany (Mexico, Central America, Peru, Brazil) with Cuban Mahogany being available before 1946. Philippine Mahogany (Luan) has some resemblance to Mahogany but is not Mahogany and generally much less dense and includes many species used for economical plywoods. Generally Mahogany is light pinkj to reddish brown and tannish brown. It is relatively hard (although one of the lowest density woods that we use for stairs), machines and works well, can be polished to a high luster, and is very durable. Mahogany trees are huge and the lumber can be purchased in great lengths and widths. Some mahogany planks are amazing. When we have a couple of 3″ x 16″ x 18′ pieces here at the shop it really seems like we must have the whole tree.

Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry)

A budding future Santa Rosa, California stair builder ,and maybe a future handrail installer,(a 22 year old framer who needs to build his first set of rough stairs) asked me how to determine the rise and run of a staircase. I wrote him a short explanation that follows.

For both the rise and run of a stair there are a few things to take into account before actual mathematical calculations take place.
Rise – What is the distance from finish floor to finish floor? To determine this one needs to know the exact dimension of the finish flooring at the bottom of the stair and at the top (these are often different thicknesses). Once a physical and accurate measurement is made from the rough floor to the rough floor taking into account possible discrepancies in how level the floor is at the stair area, then with the finish flooring thickness in mind, one can determine the finish to finish floor height. Standard average rise is around 7 1/2″ so if you take the 7.5 and divide it into that floor to floor measurement you will get a number that will represent the amount of individual risers that the stair has. Once the number of risers are determined it is simply a matter of dividing that number of risers into the finish to finish dimension.

Example -rough floor to floor rise = 108.00″

lower floor finish flooring thickness = 3/4″subtract .75″
upper floor finish flooring thickness = 1/2 add .50″
net finish to finish total rise = = 107.75″
divide finish total rise by average rise of 7.5 = 14.3666 risers (you would have 14 risers each a tad over 7 1/2″)
so then we divide total finish rise by 14 and we get 7.696″ which would be a riser height of 7 11/16″+ (new California 2010 codes set the maximum riser height at 7 3/4″)

Run – The first consideration is the actual length of space that the stair can occupy. If there is a door way or walk way around the first riser then this is a restriction that needs to be factored in.

. The average stair tread,considering walking comfort, is around 10 1/2″ plus or minus. Since your total number of risers in the example above is 14, that would leave us with 13 walking treads.
13 treads multiplied by 10.5″ = 136.5″ for overall stair length from face of top finish rise to face of the bottom finish riser.. If you have unlimited space figure that you are in the clear to build your stair. If there is a space restriction, remember that at the top of your stair, your top finish riser (be it a hardwood covering or a carpet), will encroach into your space by it’s thickness from your header and at the bottom of your stair, you need to add for the stair nosing if there is to be one (typically 1 1/4″). If there is a door or through way at the bottom of your stair, don’t forget to allow for any casing or finish trim that might be needed. If there are space restrictions you can reduce the tread dimension but pay attention to local codes (new California 2010 codes set the minimum tread depth to be 10″). For laying out a shop built housed and wedged staircase these rules apply but it is actually easier to figure being that there is no flooring material (added dimension) to be attached later for the stair to become a finished product unless there is to be a carpet runner.

This is a wooden stair building technique that a stair installer needs to master. Typically we attach most handrail transitions mechanically with either screws in the case of miters or rail bolts in the case of handrail fittings. We always use wood glue and if done right, the mechanical fastener is just for clamping while the glue dries, although the fasteners are insurance; they make sure that the glue joint is never stressed. A rail bolt is a metal fastener that has one end with a machine thread and the other end has a wood screw thread. They come in several sizes, but we use the 5/16″ x 3 1/2″ for joining our rails. The rail bolt is screwed into one mating piece of wood while the machine end is slid into a hole in the other mating piece and alignment is checked, glue is applied and nut is fastened and the 1″ hole is covered with a matching wood plug. When the joint is complete, the resulting piece is sanded smooth. The trick is to make sure both holes in the mating pieces are lined up with each other. Some stair builders mark the center lines and use a doweling jig, but I have found that if one takes a 1/4″ or so section of the railing and drill a hole in the center, it can be used for marking each mating piece of rail to be joined. Once the center is marked, typically a 1/4″ hole is drilled for the 5/16″ lag end and a 3/8″ hole is drilled for the 5/16″ machine thread end and a 1″ hole is drilled into the bottom of the rail that accepts the machine bolt so a nut with washer can be inserted, threaded on and tightened.